Front ViewRear View500Watt MotorInstrumentsCargo SpaceSSRBoost CableBoost Cable in Action
OwnerDavid Bramhall
Owner's Other EV2011 TDR 1572 (E-Bike)
LocationHamilton, Ontario Canada map
Vehicle2009 SSR Run
NOTE = This page is very messy due to quick additions to the page. I will eventually tidy it.
Probably one of the fanciest E-bikes I have ever
seen. Couldn't pass up the deal. For $650 I got
the bike in mint condition with the possibly? original 6?
year old batteries plus a 2 year old pack that
is almost like new besides one dud. It also came with an extra
charger and a good quality motorcycle helmet.
For a 6 year old bike, it doesn't seem like it
has aged one bit. No rust on the frame either.

(Purchased on June 5, 2015)
Motor 500Watt Brushless DC
Unlabeled motor.
350/500Watt support. Gets hot too easily up hills.
feeling of the torque I am estimating a
25Amp controller. Modded to about 29Amps

16Mosfet Controller (4Mosfets per phase)
(120N06N Mosfets)
Pre-Charge Caps
2x 63volt 470Microfarad
63Volt 1000Microfarad

E-Bike tester claims that it's a 60degree phase controller.
Batteries5 Mixed, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, AGM
March 2016 - 60Volt/20Amps - 1.2KWh
Upgraded bike to support a hybrid voltage.
Can run on the stock 48Volt setup, but with an added plug-in I made up, the bike can run on 60Volts resulting in a higher top speed.
Still using the old batteries in the mix.

3 Yimatzu (6-DZM-20) - 3Yr. Age
1 Universal Batteries (UB12220) - 5Yr. Age?
1 Changxing Chisen (6-DZM-20) - 5Yr. Age
Summer 2015 - 48Volt/20Amps - 0.96KWh
3 Yimatzu (6-DZM-20)
1 Universal Batteries (UB12220)

Although I was given 4 newer Yimatzu
batteries, one was shorted so I had to mix
the best leftover one from the old pack to

Didn't use the batteries from my old Ebike because they were shot.

The Yimatzu's were 2 Year's old at time of purchase and the UB was at least over 4 Year's old.
System Voltage60 Volts
Charger Chinese
60Volt Chinese Charger

Charge Rate: 2.5Amps
Charge Time: 8Hours

Old Stock Charger:
48Volt EA-H-48 Charger.

Charge Rate: 3Amps
Charge Time: <7Hours
HeaterThick Clothes/Gear
InstrumentationAnalog Speedometer
Analog Battery Gauge

*Adding voltmeter soon for 60Volt setup as the battery gauge and motor controller can no longer determine low battery*
Top Speed26 MPH (41 KPH)
Have hit a top-speed of 42km/h on the flats, although it ideally sticks around 40km/h after putting in some range.

Can still disconnect the 5th battery and revert to 48Volts at anytime if I am more concerned about range.

*Downhill & Uphill Test Pending*
Acceleration60Volt tests
0-32km/h (20mph) @7Secs
0-40km/h (25mph) @13Secs
0-32km/h (20mph) @5.84Secs
0-40km/h (25mph) @10.54Secs
(Used a stopwatch)

Can't quite keep up with traffic from a stop, but
it's enough.

Capable of climbing the Jolley Cut without pedals. That's a 20 - 25 degree incline. Not recommended due to motor heat...
Range16 Miles (25 Kilometers)
March 2016 60v (Boost Battery) (20-25% Lifespan)
- 9.32Mi(15km)Tested

The boost battery hits 30% SOC after 15km. The bike then drops down to stock voltage. Although I do unplug the fifth battery so it doesn't run down the other batteries. I forgot about this the one day and had to walk it home.

I would also suggest not leaving good batteries mixed with bad batteries to sit overnight. They take away the good battery charge and then when you leave in the morning, you have an unexpected loss of range.


March 2016 48v (47% Lifespan)
- 16Mi(26km)Tested + 2-3km limp mode @20km/h

Estimated acceleration of battery pack death due to mixed batteries, especially the very old UB battery. It was also only 8DegC out when in the summer it's over 20.


Summer 2015 48v(80% Lifespan Remain)
- 28Mi(45km)Est./19Mi(30km)Tested


I put about 100cycles on the batteries a year.
Lead-acids usually take about 300 before losing original capacity.

For lifespan, I plan to keep the batteries above
50% at all times except when absolutely

Note: After calculating the light draw, even with an incandescent taillight, it only makes 1-2km of range difference with them off.
Watt Hours/Mile31 Wh/Mile
Rating from current battery pack condition. e.g. using aprx 1/3 of 1.2KWh pack at 8km.

These numbers should be halved with brand new batteries. (Double the efficiency).

This is based on a lot of stop and go during the day and in subdivisions with stop signs.

Additional Specs (Worn batteries can vary)
EV Miles
Current:436 Miles (701 Kilometers)
    As of 5/19/2016
Seating Capacity2 adults
Curb Weight0
Soon to be calculated with a scale...somehow
I can lift each end of the bike at a time when batteries removed. Feels as if it is 40pounds on each side...

Battery Weight
48Volt = 62 pounds
60Volt = 78 pounds
TiresCheng Shin Tire - e BIKE PRO (Front and Back)
16 x 3.0
35psi - 45psi

Filled to 46psi
Conversion Time3.5Hours

3Hours - Ride testing all of my spare batteries
for the best pack.

20min - Taking apart the dashboard so I could
calibrate the overconfident speedometer with a

10min - Simple maintenance. Oiled chain, filled
Conversion CostSummer 2015
Factory Built Electric.
Payed $650 for everything.
Additional FeaturesFactory alarm - E209-LB15W (125db)
Factory sticker-bombing.
*Will install LED strip for extra visibility to other drivers - early 2016*
*May add a "Real" headlight for proper visibility in darker areas - Undecided*
EV Miles Explanation: Even with no odometer, I estimated my average commuting around town via Google Maps. I just re-look or plan ahead my route and make sure to add it to my mileage after the ride, or write it down for later.

Things Done:
- Did a simple shunt mod. Squeezed the shunts together and added a spot of solder to keep the two shunts touching. Showed a 15-19% gain in acceleration, most improvement notable at top-end. Still has room for more. No fuse upgrade was necessary. Only added about 4Amps. (March 16, 2016)

- Made a boost pack. Re-using the wires connecting to the broken winter disconnect switch, I wired in a female 120outlet to act as a disconnect terminator as well as a way to add another 12volt battery in series. Bike is now 60Volts and can exceed 40km/h. See photos. (March 7-8, 2016)

- Found the VIN number and verified the year. Turns out it was manufactured in 2009, not 2011. It also told me that I own the 25th bike made, so I am assuming the company didn't sell that many, so it may be somewhat rare. (July 21, 2015)

- Fixed brakes by adjusting the sensitivity and re-calibrating the regen-braking. Much better and safer now. (July 12, 2015)

- Re-calibrated speedometer to read correctly. It now matches the
GPS. (June 7, 2015)

List of things to do:

-Replace the two older batteries or buy a new good set of five.
- Change signal lights and taillights with LEDs for reduced battery
- Range Pack/Reserve Pack! (NiMH/Lead in series plugs into charge port)
- Add cooling fins to motor...somehow, or vent holes. On a hot day, the motor is generally warm but if you go up the Jolley Cut, it gets hot enough to burn you and I don't want to destroy the motor.

After I am finished everything I wish to do with this bike a may buy another one for more fun. They are affordable enough to come by used.

code by jerry