Engine Compartment
OwnerJoe Capowski
LocationChapel Hill, North Carolina United States map
Web/EmailWebPage email image
Vehicle1988 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup
Chevy S-10 with 2.5 litre, 4-cylinder Mitsubishi engine, with 118K miles when I bought the truck in 1999
MotorAdvanced DC FB-4001A Series Wound DC
Common DC motor for conversions
Drivetrain5 speed standard transmission, standard brakes, standard steering, mechanical speedometer.
ControllerCurtis 1231C, max current is 500 amps
Mature controller, however I burned one out due to inadequate heat dissipation -- it's hot in NC.
To not make the same mistake twice, I mounted a large heat sink on the bottom of the controller and blew air through its fins with two 5-inch electronics fans. The fans make
no appreciable noise. Since then, I've been through three NC summers with no problems, knock on wood.
Batteries20 Deka 8G24, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Gel
There are two parallel strings of batteries, each with ten batteries
in series. With this circuitry, it is
important to buy all the batteries from
the same manufacturing lot.
System Voltage120 Volts
Charger Home designed
Three 50-volt, 4-amp power supplies in series followed by a home-designed
voltage regulator to maintain the charger output at less than 141 volts.
HeaterMounted on the top of the dash and
aimed toward the center of the
windshield is a five-inch electronics fan that blows air through a 1500 watt
ceramic heater core. In our modest
winters, it keeps the windshield
clear, but it does reduce the range by about 10 percent.
DC/DC ConverterCurtis I don't remember
The "prep" switch (see comments at bottom) connects the input of the DC/DC converter to the traction battery pack. While this simplifies the control circuitry, it means that the auxiliary battery is always
being drained slightly through the
output transistors of the converter.
If the truck is idle for two
weeks, the aux battery will drain sufficiently so that it will not
power the relays that initiate the
controller. This is a minor hassle;
I must clip a jumper wire
across the "prep" relay.
InstrumentationLarge, high quality Simpson analog 0-500 amps ammeter for motor current placed directly in front of the driver. It displays
instantaneous current far better than
any digital meter. I drive this meter. 0-15 Volts DC voltmeter that displays average battery voltage. From experience, I monitor battery voltage at 200 Amps; when it dips below 11.2 volts, I head home.
Top Speed60 MPH (96 KPH)
I don't drive on I-40, but there are no
other limits. It would likely go
faster, however a pickup has a poor
aerodynamic shape, hence its energy
consumption would skyrocket.
AccelerationSlow -- it's a heavy truck, 3700 pounds with me and no other load
Range40 Miles (64 Kilometers)
Chapel Hill is, as its name implies, hilly. Hence much of the energy goes intoclimbing, thereby reducing range. I did not to install regenerative
braking circuity, since its gain in range is only a few percent
EV Miles
Start:122 Miles (196 Kilometers)
Current:140 Miles (225 Kilometers)
Total:18 Miles (28 Kilometers)
 
    As of 5/3/2009
Seating Capacity2 adults
Curb Weight3,540 Pounds (1,609 Kilograms)
TiresGood quality Goodyear, but not special.
Snow is not an issue here. During
occasional wintery weather, the
truck does very well due to the
battery weight over the rear wheels.
Conversion TimeAbout 1000 hours, with most of that
spent cleaning, painting, rebuilding the dashboard and rewiring the truck.
Conversion Cost$3K for the truck and $8K for parts
for the conversion
Additional FeaturesNew Dashboard with good quality audio system.
I bought the truck knowing that I would convert it
to an EV. I chose rust-free (available here in NC), standard steering and brakes, and lucked into a mechanical speedometer. This last feature made it possible for me to completely eliminate the truck's computer. I cut out the speedometer from the old instrument panel and mounted it in the new dashboard. I found that I would use about 10 percent of the original wiring harness, so I trashed it and rewired the truck; it was easy.

At Bob Batson's suggestion, I left the clutch
disk in the drivetrain, but it is permanently
engaged. I removed the clutch pedal and its linkage.
It is very easy to shift gears with the clutch permanently engaged. The clutch disk springs plus a
new set of motor mounts provide an appropriate amount
of flexibility to the drive train.

Turning on the truck involves two dashboard switches.
The Prep switch charges the capacitors in the controller
through a resistor that limits inrush current, though
it takes about five seconds to charge them. The prep
switch also turns on the DC/DC converter to charge
the auxiliary battery. The main switch turns on the
big contactor and the fans that cool the controller.
With both these on, the car can be driven. The key
switch on the steering column has no electrical
function; all it does is unlock the steering wheel.

code by jerry