Owner | Tom Rapini | ||
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Location | Mentor, Ohio United States map | ||
Vehicle | 1972 Honda N600 Sedan | ||
Motor | General Electric Series Wound DC 12 HP, 67 VDC, 160 amp continuous, air cooled. Replaced brushes in 2016, about 30,000 miles on the motor. | ||
Drivetrain | Original 4-speed transmission | ||
Controller | Curtis 1221C ... reliable, but squeals at start up - very annoying, EV's should be quiet! | ||
Batteries | 36, 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate Finally made the jump to Li batteries !!! Lots of up-front money, but performance improvement has been great, and the life/cycle benefits should more than make it worthwhile ! | ||
System Voltage | 115 Volts | ||
Charger | Manzanita Micro PFC30 --- 30amp @ 240 volt This is a great, versatile charger. Thanks Bruce Roberts (check out his Porcshe EV !) I can easily crank the amps up or down depending on where I am plugging in to charge | ||
Heater | Waste motor heat did not provide enough, plus I wanted to dedicate its cooling fan. So in Jan. of 2016 I made a simple electric heater with two large resistance elements stuck inside a 3" flexible exhaust pipe. | ||
DC/DC Converter | Meanwell SD-200D-12 Tried wiring my 115VDC main battery bank into a standard AC to DC converter (thought the DC might just pass right through the rectifier circuitry). Nope, it didn't like the DC. So I now have a legitimate DC to DC converter. I undersized it a bit (only 200 watts), thinking it would just draw off the battery if it couldn't deliver enough current during the rare times I need headlights AND wipers AND all other accessories. UNFORTUNATELY, instead of holding its max current of 30 amps, it FAULTS OUT and shuts completely off !!! My work-around was to shut off the wipers before I use the turn signal or brake lights if I am driving at night in the rain! BUT, in 2019 LED light bulbs came to the rescue ! The drop in current draw by changing all the tail and turn-signal lights to LED bulbs has solved the current fault problem | ||
Instrumentation | Grin Technologies Cycle Analyst, high current model... excellent $150 investment | ||
Top Speed | 60 MPH (96 KPH) Its an around-town car, not used on freeways or at speeds over 45mph | ||
Acceleration | Fair, car is underpowered with the 12hp motor. Was a real dog with the lead acid batteries, but now it is much lighter and quicker. Can easily maintain 40 mph speed on hills once it gets going | ||
Range | 70 Miles (112 Kilometers) Not completely tested yet, Li batteries installed Sept. 28, 2015 | ||
EV Miles |
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Seating Capacity | 2 adults | ||
Curb Weight | 1,600 Pounds (727 Kilograms) Original curb weight was 1300 lbs, removed engine and accessories, added motor and batteries. Guessing weight is now around 1600, judging by how much the springs came up once I switched out the lead-acid's | ||
Tires | Standard 10" radials... that's right, TEN inch ! | ||
Conversion Time | Hours plus more hours... still counting. With the upgrades and rusted-body change-outs, its got to be over 1500 hours by now ! | ||
Conversion Cost | around $2000 originally, just spent $150 for meter and $3800 for batteries in 2015 | ||
The car's battery charging is supplemented by my home's 5500 watt photovoltaic array. It has been very reliable, over 28,000 miles under electric power, but this is more a testimonial to the simplicity and reliability of the electric vehicle rather than my technical skills. Picture here is FOURTH generation and also the third body, as I've rusted out two others driving in our snowy, salt obsessed, suburb of Cleveland. 1993 - First generation was with seven 12 volt marine batteries 1998 - Second generation was with twelve 6 volt Trojans 2006 - Third generation with multiple purchases of used gel-cells 2015 - LiFePo4 last update for this data, 11-21-22 |