Owner | Mike Nickerson | ||||||||
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Location | Middleton, Idaho United States map | ||||||||
Web/Email | WebPage | ||||||||
Vehicle | 1993 Honda del Sol | ||||||||
Motor | Advanced DC FB1-4001A Series Wound DC Motor is reverse rotation due to Honda transmission. Motor has been set to reverse timing to compensate. | ||||||||
Drivetrain | Advanced DC 9" Series DC. Fed by ThunderSky LiFePO4 cells and a Kelly controller. | ||||||||
Controller | Kelly KDH14100D | ||||||||
Batteries | 45 Thunder Sky TS-LFP100AHA , 3.20 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate | ||||||||
System Voltage | 144 Volts | ||||||||
Charger | Elcon PFC 2000+ 144v charger. Draws 15A on 120V, 10A on 240V. Automatically switches between 120/240VAC. This allows me to charge at 220V at home and 110V at work. | ||||||||
Heater | MES DEA RM4 (finally installed and working!) | ||||||||
DC/DC Converter | Elcon 132-168V | ||||||||
Instrumentation | EV Works Fuel Gauge Driver Digital Voltmeter Digital Ammeter with capacitive decoupling circuit from Lee Hart. Thermistor in motor driving temperature gauge on dash | ||||||||
Top Speed | 75 MPH (120 KPH) | ||||||||
Acceleration | Good in 2nd. A little doggy in 3rd. Clutchless conversion means waiting 3-4 seconds for motor to slow before shifting. | ||||||||
Range | 55 Miles (88 Kilometers) (estimated at 60 mph in 3rd gear) I have driven 46 miles and still had range left. | ||||||||
Watt Hours/Mile | 250 Wh/Mile Average Wh/mile on my commute. 23 miles each way with 3/4 highway and 1/4 stop/go traffic as I enter the city. Measured at the wall, so battery Ah would be 10- 15% less. | ||||||||
EV Miles |
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Seating Capacity | 2 adults | ||||||||
Curb Weight | 2,550 Pounds (1,159 Kilograms) Original vehicle was 2300 lbs, removed 250 lbs and added 500 lbs. | ||||||||
Tires | Pirelli Extra LRR tires (P6 Four Seasons Plus) | ||||||||
Conversion Time | 150 hours | ||||||||
Conversion Cost | $14,600 | ||||||||
Additional Features | The original fuel gauge, tachometer, speedometer, and temp gauges work. I built a tach sending unit with a hall-effect sensor on the auxilliary shaft of the motor. Temp gauge is wired to thermistor in motor sized to match original temperature sending gauge. Idaho License Plate: LIFEPO4 | ||||||||
[March 2010] Just installed new struts and a manual steering rack. [April 2010] I've sold my Paktrakr 800 and EV Dashboard WebPage /> [May 2010] Installed an EV Works Fuel Gauge Driver, an Elcon 2000+ charger and a MiniBMS. [Jul 2010] del Sold. [Aug 2010] (new owner) Added DC-DC converter switched by main contactor so it's only on when ignition is on. Realized later that this means DC-DC converter is slowly draining pack through pre-charge resistor. [Nov 2010] Currently rewiring to add solid state relay for heater and DC Converter and bring BMS and AC relay inside a metal box. Wiring twist-lock receptacle under fuel filler door. Creating adapter cords for 120V/20A and 240V/20A. [April 2011] Wiring is finished and car is back on the road. Still don't have heater installed though. All other wiring is complete. DC-DC Converter and heater power are now switched by solid-state relay. DC-DC Converter has in-rush limiters. [July 2011] Finally got the 240V outlet wired in the shop. Now charging at 240V! The Elcon charger fan runs noticeably faster at 240V. I also have a kWh meter on the 240V outlet so I can start collecting wh/mile metrics again. Finished installing the digital meters. They have transformer boards to use 150V as their power input. I figure this lessens the chance of blowing meters. The current shunt is on the positive side of the pack so I made up a capacitive coupling circuit from Lee Hart's description on EVDL. This protects the 50mv input of the meter from any chance of getting 150V. [December 2011] Finally got the heater installed. Mornings have been very chilly! Still working on a final solution to battery heat. LiFePO4 batteries sag more when cold and this affects performance. I'm going with Hydor Hydrokables as battery heaters. These are designed for lizards in terrariums. They seem to have a maximum temperature of 105F. Hydor also has a thermostat which regulates by cutting AC power. Adding boxes of 1/2" foam and 1/4" plywood. That's all I can fit in. [April 2011] The heaters and battery boxes are finally installed and car is back on the road again. This required rearranging the cells under the hood and getting everything packed under the hood again. [December 2013] Finally got the heaters plugged into 120V. There is a receptacle under the gas flap next to the main charger input for a standard PC pigtail. That is then wired to outlets for each of the 3 heaters. [January 2014] New EVSE installed at work that requires J1772. No Level 1 charging is supported there now. Bought a J1772 adapter from Tucson EV. It works great and I'm now charging 220V at home and work. Was surprised to learn that my controller only charges at 1.64 kW on 220V. I thought it would be 2.2kW. [March 2014] For the second year in a row, I was able to drive the EV year- round, except when deep snow on my driveway might cause problems with a low-clearance sports car. That was only 2 weeks this year. |