Engine bay
OwnerMike Laba
LocationDunedin, Otago New Zealand map
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Vehicle1968 Morris Mini-mark 1
Two seater Mini after conversion.
MotorCurtis AC-20 3-Phase AC
The motor is mounted on-top of the gearbox, and direct drive
(through a extra idler gear) to the gear-box.
DrivetrainStandard gearbox - with the clutch and flywheel removed.
ControllerCurtis 1238-7601
Air cooled, mounted where the radiator was.
Batteries28 ETC-106 (2 x 53A/hr) two connected in parallel. , 105.00 Volt, Lithium-Ion
All 28 batteries are mounted on the floor behind the front
seat.
System Voltage114 Volts
ChargerZivan NG3
230VAC Mains in, output set to 115VDC at 12amps, but I mainly
charged my Mini via our house PV panels after our house batteries
are charged.
HeaterNo heater was fitted to the original car. I have made a scoop to
collect some heat from the motor.
DC/DC ConverterVicor 12C -200BL
80 - 120V in, 13.7V out, up to 200W.
InstrumentationDigital A/Hr meter (JDL-HB 404) for main battery pack, also reads
current, voltage and running time. This item is also used to stop the
charging on the main battery pack.
Dignal Volt meter for the 12v battery.
A circular 12 x LED display showing current going out and coming
into the main battery pack.
Top Speed55 MPH (88 KPH)
Over 100 km/h
AccelerationFine for around town driving.
Range53 Miles (85 Kilometers)
Distance 53miles - 82 km depending on speed and terrain
with the new ETC-106A/Hr batteries.
Watt Hours/Mile5000 Wh/Mile
On a flat straight road with no wind at a speed of
30MPH, current
is 50 amps @ 105volts with two people on board.
EV Miles
Start:69,000 Miles (111,021 Kilometers)
Current:75,000 Miles (120,675 Kilometers)
Total:6,000 Miles (9,654 Kilometers)
 
    As of 1/31/2020
Seating Capacity2 adults and now plenty of room in the trunk (boot) because no fuel
tank and I don't carry a spare wheel.
Curb Weight1,322 Pounds (600 Kilograms)
Now less than the original - 600 Kg with the new ETC-106 batteries
and the new high-back seats.
TiresStandard 10" 145/80R10 Power Star, pressure 34psi replaced on
Feb 2015.
Conversion Time2.5 years plus
Conversion CostRather not think about it.
Additional FeaturesJan 2008. Rear stop lights, park lights, number plate lights and
inside roof light have been all upgraded with LED's.

Aug 2009. I downsize the 12V accessory battery with 4 small 10A/hr
Lithium-Iron batteries.

June 2011. Replaced all turning lamps with LED's and replaced the
flasher unit with a moss-fet circuit, current consumption has dropped to about
0.5amps when turning from about 3.5amps. A big saving on power from the 12v battery.

Feb 2013. Replaced the 65/65w headlamps with high efficiency 35/35W
lamps and added a small LED in both main headlight reflectors. I have wired these LED's to
come on when the key switch is on, now called daylight driving lights.
These headlight LED's have already save me from one accident. Small
car ... hard to see.

Mar 2013. Replaced all 4 suspension rubbers, car rides much better
now. The old
rubbers were about 20years old.

June 2014. De-seamed body ... less air resistance at high speed.
Replaced gearbox oil with
automatic gearbox oil (very thin), gears now run easier with less
resistance than the older
thicker oil. Remember the old engine/gearbox oil got very hot because
it was used also to
lubricant the petrol engine.

Nov 2014. I added two more batteries to the main pack making now 32
batteries. Installed three small PV panels in the back window to supplement the 12volt battery
charging.

Sept 2015. Changed the main battery pack volt & amp meters with a JLD404 DC AH meter.
This allows me to see how many amp/hrs I have used per trip and know roughly how far I can
travel.

Sept 2016. Upgraded the controller purchased from ZEVA (Australia). This new controller is
much more efficient than my 18 year old Curtis and does not go into shut-down mode when
going up steep hills also it has a single oscillator frequency, no two step frequency shift as in
the Curtis.

Mar 2017. Change the headlamps to LED's. Purchased the lamps from China 20/20watts much
brighter that the 35watt halogen and uses less current. Been wanting to do this for a long time.
Had to remove them because our warrant of fitness said not legal.

Aug 2017. Upgraded my battery pack with 34 x CAM-72's. car performance improved because of
weight saving.

March 2018. Motor replaced with an AC type onto my second Mini gearbox. Now I have
regeneration braking ya.

Oct 2018. I made a circular display using LEDs showing motor current going in (2x green) and
out (6 x red) of the battery pack.

Jan 2020. Upgraded the main battery pack with ETC-106 batteries, fitted coil springs, replaced
the steering rack, overhauled the gearbox, replaced the CV joints, fitted a Scott's BMS system
and replaced most of the brake lines.
My Mini was first commissioned on 9th July 1998 with the DC motor.
The first batteries were VRLA batteries, 8 x 12v Sonnenschein 70A/hr.

The second lot were 8 x Optima 65A/hr. The fourth are what I have now.

code by jerry